Climb Magazine 100th Isuue - The very best of British
I recently shot a portrait of top British climber Lucy Creamer for the Climbers Against Cancer website (read about it here) a month later I was contacted by Ian Parnell Deputy Editor of British climbing magazine Climb, asking if they could use the portrait in their 100th issue to accompany an interview Ian was conducting with Lucy Creamer. Ian told me that for the 100th issue Climb were going "BIG" it was going to be a celebration of all things British. One hundred best routes, one hundred most influential climbers, the best gear and innovations, the best books and films. It sounded like a lot of hard work to produce, but that just made the prospect of getting involved all the more appealing. The center piece of the magazine was going to be "The Big Interview" and that was going to be Ian's interview with Lucy.
Lucy Creamer has without doubt been one of the leading lights in British climbing over the last 15 years. Where would I begin trying to discribe to you what she's acheived throughout her illustrious career so why don't I just let Ian Parnell tell you a little bit about her in his introduction for the intereview, take it away Ian :
"Few British climbers have led the way in so many different aspects of climbing as 41 year old Lucy Creamer. Equally at home on blank gritstone headpointing Slab and Crack (E8 6c), or on the seacliffs of Pembroke onsighting the fierce testpiece Boss Hogg (E7 6c), or amongst the ice climbs of Ouray scratching her way up the first ascent of the mixed climb Mighty Aphrodite (M9) with its poor trad protection. Out in the warmth of Spain she’s onsighted or flashed sport 8a's and redpointed the intimidatingly steep Kalea Borroka (8b+) whilst in Greenland she’s climbed Arctic big wall E5s" and thats just for starters!
I've known Lucy for well over fifteen years. I've seen her cruise her way up routes that I couldn't even hang the holds on. I've been lucky enough to be right there with her on some of her most memorable ascents, sometimes belaying her but usually locked in behind the camera trying to capture just a little of what she's going through. I've seen her onsight hard trad and sport routes, redpoint and boulder with the best of them, compete in world cups and climb the hardest mixed rock and ice route in the world (at the time) put up by a woman, Mighty Aphrodite M9 X, which had me shaking in my boots when she (and I) thought she was going to fall off mid crux and take the long, nausiating ground fall which would ultimately result in broken bones and possibily worst. Five minutes later when she made it onto the hanging ice dagger and finally the top saw us both shedding a tear. I've been with her for the highs and more recently the lows of injury. I couldn't think of a better person to represent the sport to celebrate Climb mags One Hundredth issue, somehow it just seemed right. To quote another great British climber Steve McClure writing in the magazine "The Queen of British Climbing. The best at everything she tried. The best comp climber, the best trad climber, the best sport climber and the best on-sighter. With Redpoints at 8b+ and on-sights of 8a she is still right at the cutting edge, which is where she has been for over 15 years"
Love ya Girl